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Get instruction
This page explains what standards bodies, federations and makers publish. It is not a substitute for instruction from a qualified instructor or guide, and it does not replace medical advice.
Where pads fit
The BMC defines bouldering as climbing at low height on small rocks, boulders or indoor walls, on routes called problems, and says padded mats are commonly used. It describes highballing, where bouldering meets soloing on a tall problem usually climbed with pads and spotters, as high-risk. How pads are placed and how spotting works are taught, not explained here, and nothing on this page says a pad will prevent an injury.
The standard: UIAA 161
The UIAA lists UIAA 161 Crash pads at version 5 (2018). Crash pads have no matching EN standard in the UIAA's list, and the text of UIAA 161 was not available for our research. In June 2021 the UIAA reported that crash pads were among the newer standards whose number of Safety Labels had grown.
The clearest public description of the test is a UIAA update that we could see only as a search snippet, so the following is unconfirmed:
- The test drops an instrumented headform onto the pad from increasing heights until it finds the height that produces a Head Injury Criterion (HIC) score of 800. That height is the pad's critical fall height.
- HIC was first developed to relate head impacts to injury in car accidents.
- The UIAA said the chance of serious brain injury at the HIC 800 height is under 2%, and that its threshold is stricter than playground surfacing standards.
A critical fall height is a laboratory result for a headform landing on a new pad. It is not a statement about any real fall.
Why makers' figures may not compare
Ocun, a maker, publishes critical fall heights for its pads at HIC 400 rather than the HIC 800 that the UIAA summary describes, as shown in search results. A fall height measured at one HIC level cannot be compared with one measured at another.
Indoor bouldering walls have their own standard
Gym floors are not crash pads. EN 12572-2:2017 covers bouldering walls; the Estonian standards body lists it as valid from 3 February 2017. The UK's Association of British Climbing Walls says in its Code of Practice that bouldering areas need suitable impact flooring and that novice boulderers should have a safety induction or be supervised.
What injury data records
- Schoeffl and colleagues' study of one German climbing wall, as the BMC reported it in 2013, found bouldering injuries there were mostly falls onto the mat.
- The German Alpine Club (DAV) and KLEVER's 2024 gym statistics, reported by LACRUX, found about 75% of reported accidents happened in bouldering, about 85% of those were falls onto the mat, and leg injuries predominated.
- Madsen and colleagues (2025), citing earlier work, report that emergency bouldering injuries rose about fivefold from 2010 to 2020, often involving foot and ankle injuries from falls.
- Quarmby and colleagues' 2023 review found bouldering among the factors associated with higher overuse-injury risk, and lower-limb injuries more often linked to falls.
A suspected injury needs medical care. The injuries page sets out what the medical sources report.
Our picks by category
Crash pads
A pad's critical fall height, where published, is a laboratory figure; a UIAA label means it was tested to UIAA 161, which by the UIAA's summarised account uses HIC 800. A height published at another HIC level, such as Ocun's HIC 400, is not comparable. The research behind this guide found no standard figures for pad size or foam, so those are the maker's own description.
Best for: Boulderers who climb outdoors
Climbing brushes
Mammut, a maker, encourages brushing chalk residue off holds with brushes that are gentle on the rock, and says too much chalk builds up a slippery layer (June 2024). Those are Mammut's statements. A brush needs no fitting.
Best for: Boulderers who use chalk outdoors
Chalk bags and buckets
Where chalk is allowed, it needs a container. Rules vary: the National Park Service bans white chalk at Arches National Park (page updated 28 July 2026), and Mammut says many gyms post "no dust" rules. See chalk and chalk rules.
Best for: Boulderers who use chalk
Sources
- BMC, Different types of climbing explained (undated)
- UIAA, safety standards page (read 2026-10-21)
- UIAA, Safety Standards Update: Crash Pads (search snippet only)
- UIAA, Safety Commission reports on standards progress (16 June 2021)
- Ocun, crash pad data sheet (maker; search result only)
- Estonian Centre for Standardisation, EN 12572-2:2017
- Association of British Climbing Walls, Code of Practice
- BMC, experts release climbing injury stats (30 September 2013)
- LACRUX, DAV gym accident statistics 2024 (7 July 2025)
- Madsen et al., Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 2025;7:1555169
- Quarmby et al., Frontiers in Sports and Active Living 2023;5:1269870
- Mammut, chalk for climbing and bouldering guide (maker, June 2024)
- NPS, Arches National Park rock climbing (updated 28 July 2026)